Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Quilotoa–crater lake

We were so happy with our day at Cotopaxi that we asked our guide if he was free for another day to go see Lake Quilotoa.

Quilotoa GPS

He picked us up at 8am and we began a lengthy journey through towns and villages dotted along the path towards the Volcano. Guilermo took us to the first stop of the day – an outdoor day market where we took a quick stroll through the fresh fruit, veggies and fish that was on sale. There were even guys selling shampoo! They attempt to sell a little bit of everything there – not sure why they think shampoo is going to be a big seller but maybe they can do it cheaper.

After seeing the central park in the town and one of the churches, we continued on our journey and had an unexpected stop. Guillermo pulled over at the side of the road in a spot that looked to have nothing and then we realized that there was a small grass hut home just up a narrow path. We were well above the tree line but the softly rounded hills were divided into small farming patches. We walked up the path and towards the home. The family living there welcomed us in and we were astonished to see how they had fit everything into their home. It was probably 12ft by 10ft but it felt even smaller because of the slope of the grass roof. When we entered, to our left was the mom cooking on a stove that sat on the ground, the pot just a foot higher than the ground. She was crouched down stirring away at the daily meal which was boiling away over the bright flames – the only light besides the daylight that shone in.

We left after taking a beautiful photo of the family and a few of the dogs, birds and pigs. The drive through the highlands was just spectacular - the cool air and clouds grazing the peaks of the hills and the green fields of the farmers with their grass huts and small rivers nearby. I couldn’t take enough pictures of the beautiful landscape.

Eventually we made our final ascent up to the rim of the Quilotoa crater. There was a pleasant assortment of little restaurants and places to stay up there. It seemed to be a new economy for the locals driven by the tourists – most of which were not gringos like us btw. Guillermo left us to make the hike to the bottom of the crater on our own. It took us around an hour just to hike down to the lake. The problem was that the path was very steep and the dirt was dry and packed making things a bit slippery and tricky. Brooke had to be especially careful as she couldn’t afford a fall on her hand. We made it to the bottom and sat and had some snacks at the beach. We declined the option of taking a horse back up which half way through the hike up both Brooke and I were thinking might have been a good idea. Boy did we sweat. But we powered up the hill only being passed by four young boys who weren’t carrying anything and a dog. It took us well over an hour to get down and only 45 min to get back up. This is the exact opposite of what they suggest – 45 min to get down and 1 to 2 hours to climb back up. We’re fit.

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This reminds me of the Siq valley at the entrance to Petra in Jordan.

 

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Our guide arranged lunch with in this family’s home.

 

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The local specialty is a kind of potato chicken soup that is to die for. I could have eaten 4 bowls – I had two.

 

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Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Cotopaxi – the highest active volcano in the world

Measuring things is an exercise in futility. We all know Everest is the highest point on the earth right? Maybe. If you are looking for the point furthest from the center of the earth, the most logical point of reference, you’d find yourself at the volcano in Ecuador named Chimborazo.

A close second in Ecuador is Cotopaxi. It is among the highest points on the earth as well as being the highest active volcano relative to sea level.

 

cotopaxi internet pic

 

Facts, facts, facts. It’s a beautiful volcano and captures the spirit of Ecuador. I think, more than anything else in Ecuador, Cotopaxi is the heart.

People say that the indigenous name, Cotopaxi, means the neck of the god. It is a perfect strata volcano that has that oh so beautiful symmetry. 

Our guide Guilermo took us for what was a wonderful day, restoring our love for South America and all its wonders. Ecuador is truly full of just about everything. Enjoy as much or as little as you want. I guarantee once you start looking, you’ll find amazing things.

 

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Everyone here has furry dashboards.

GPS route Cotopaxi
This was the GPS route we took.

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I thought I left Canada and the winter behind!

 

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Wet and wild. Working our way up the slope to the hut.

 

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Brooke with our Guide Guilermo

 

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We got to the lodge – wet and cold we went in for a hot chocolate.

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The Skies cleared just as we were leaving the refuge. It made for a nice walk down.

 

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At the end of the day we had a nice meal and as always….mmmm Beer.

 

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Giant carrots being washed by the roadside. Anything goes I guess.